RED CERT HARD HATS

Red CERT Hard hats? I thought that CERT hard hats were supposed to be Lime or Green?? Well, it ends up that some CERT teams prefer red hard hats, and others have the team leaders in red hard hats. If you think about it, how many "civilians" recognize green as an an emergency responder color? We are all trained to recognize red. Firefighters all have red helmets. EMTs often have red caps. Fire trucks are red. Ambulances are red. I am sure you can think of more examples. And, the idea of having the team leaders with a different color hard hat than the rest of the team makes a lot of sense. In a real disaster, chaos reigns supreme. With everyone milling about trying to help, how do the teams find their leaders and get organized. Flashing lights help, but a red hard hat on the team leaders also will help make them stand out. But, does anyone actually sell RED CERT hard hats? It ends up that you can get them at a discount price here: RED CERT HARD HAT

When Temperatures Soar – What if You Don’t Have Air Conditioning?

Many households are not equipped with air conditioning. Extreme heat events may be few and short in duration where you live, and many people may anticipate that they can cope … for a while. For some, however, extreme heat poses a serious health risk and their ability to tolerate even short periods of high heat is poor: examples include infants and small children; people who are sick, persons with chronic disease, mental illness or who are physically fragile; and those who cannot escape exposure such as outdoor workers.

According to the Center for Disease Control, these are the main things affecting your body’s ability to cool itself during extremely hot weather:

• High humidity. When the humidity is high, sweat won’t evaporate as quickly, which keeps your body from releasing heat as fast as it may need to.


• Personal factors. Age, obesity, fever, dehydration, heart disease, mental illness, poor circulation, sunburn, and prescription drug and alcohol use can play a role in whether a person can cool off enough in very hot weather.
  

In 2002 a major heat wave triggered outages in the US as demand for power overwhelmed supply in some areas. Residents and visitors were left to creative and sometimes dangerous devices and sadly, some others perished. Wildfires and other natural disasters can also interrupt power during heat events, leaving everyone without air conditioning. It makes sense to also consider how you would cope in an extreme heat event, even if you normally have air conditioning available.

In General

• Stay out of the direct sun.
  

• Protect your skin if you must be out of doors; cover arms, legs, head, neck with lightweight, light-colored and loose-fitting clothing and a wide-brimmed hat. Use sunscreen, SPF 30 or greater.


• Postpone physical activity until the heat wave passes or to cooler parts of the day: early morning or late evening.


• If you must be active, slow down and take frequent breaks in the shade.


• Drink water or dilute sports drinks; stay hydrated. Drink regularly and before you are thirsty. Avoid dehydrating beverages such as those with caffeine or alcohol in them.


• Check on others – particularly those who may be more at risk for heat sickness. Keep an eye on coworkers and fellow recreationists for signs of illness. Collapse, confusion, seizure, vomiting, diarrhea, are all signs of serious heat illness, possibly heat stroke or shock, and require immediate medical attention.


• NEVER leave children, frail persons or pets in a car or confined in a hot place – not even for a few minutes.



At Home


• In your home, use fans* to cool and move inside air when outside temperatures are hotter than inside.


• Move to cooler parts of the house. Basements, lower stories and rooms on the north side of the house are often significantly cooler.


• Turn off lights and appliances that are not needed and that generate heat. Defer using appliances such as your oven, cook top, dishwasher until it cools down.
  


• If you have an attic ventilation fan* – turn it on to circulate trapped hot air to the outside.


• Wipe your face, neck and chest with cool, wet washcloths and take cool showers for added comfort. Ice packs, wrapped in a towel, may be used for short periods of time.


• Close curtains to insulate and keep sun and radiant heat from warming inside.


• When temperatures cool, (often when afternoon winds pick up), open windows to allow the breeze to flow through. Note: be careful about open doors and windows when you are not home or when you are asleep. Consider upper story windows that would be out of reach to would-be intruders.


• Consider air-conditioned* activities during the hottest part of the day: visit the library, see a movie, do some light shopping.


• If you’re having trouble staying cool, let family, a friend or neighbor know. If you’re feeling ill from the heat, call for medical help!



* assumes no power outage


Reprinted and edited from original posting from:
Peggy Peirson, Emergency Services Coordinator
Benton County Emergency Management, Search & Rescue
180 NW 5th Street, Corvallis, OR 97330

Lightning Safety

In the United States there are an estimated 25 million cloud-to-ground lightning flashes each year. Amazing to watch, lightning can also be extremely dangerous. Lightning kills an average of 73 people and injures over 300 a year in the United States, more than tornadoes or hurricanes. Summertime seems to bring some of the most dramatic thunderstorms to Oregon. This year, with drier than normal conditions, lightning and the fires it starts could be even more destructive.

A typical thunderstorm is 15 miles in diameter and lasts 20 to 30 minutes. Only 10 percent of the estimated 100,000 thunderstorms that occur each year are classified as “severe.”

All thunderstorms are dangerous and are capable of producing lightning
that can cause death, injury, and property damage and can start fires.

A thunderstorm is considered “severe” by the National Weather Service if it produces hail that is at least three quarters of an inch in diameter, has winds in excess of 58 miles per hour, or produces a tornado. In these conditions, National Weather Service will issue a WARNING – which means that a hazardous event is imminent or occurring.

If conditions favor the occurrence of a severe thunderstorm within the next six to twenty-four hours for a particular region, a WATCH will be issued.

Stay alert to the signs of an approaching thunderstorm: darkening skies, flashes of lightning, thunder, increasing winds. Listen to a NOAA Weather radio or local media for broadcast of warnings or watches.

~ Thunderstorms may occur singly, in clusters or in lines.

~ Lightning can strike as far as 10 miles away from any rainfall – possibly beyond the distance where any thunder can be heard.

~ If you can hear thunder, you are in danger from lightning.

~ Strong thunderstorms can produce large and damaging hail.

~ High winds and powerful downbursts can accompany thunderstorms.

If you suspect that conditions that could bring lightning are developing:

~ Find shelter in a fully enclosed building or car. Keep car windows up and avoid convertibles.

~ Stay clear of telephone lines and metal pipes (irrigation, fences, etc.) that can conduct electricity. Unplug appliances. Avoid using the telephone or any plug-in electrical appliances.

~ Keep away from open doors and windows, fireplaces, radiators, stoves, sinks and any plug-in electrical appliances.

~ Postpone taking a bath, shower or running water for any other purpose. Remember, in older houses, tubs and the plumbing may be metal.

~ Turn off the air conditioner and other electrical appliances. Power surges from lightning can overload the compressor and result in a costly repair job.

~ Draw blinds and shades over the windows, as difficult as that may be when you want to watch the lightning. When lightning strikes close by, it can cause windows to break due to outdoor objects blown about by the wind or struck by lightning.

If you're caught outside:

~ The summits of mountains, crests of ridges, slopes above the timberline and large meadows are extremely hazardous places to be during lightning storms. If you are caught in an exposed place, quickly descend to a lower elevation, away from the direction of the approaching storm, and squat down with feet together – keeping your head low. A dense forest located in a depression provides the best protection. Avoid taking shelter under isolated trees or trees much taller than adjacent trees. Stay away from water, metal objects and other substances that will conduct electricity long distances.

~ Stay in the car if you are travelling. Automobiles generally offer good lightning protection.

~ If you are in the woods, take shelter under shorter trees.

~ If you are boating, swimming or in the open (golf, agriculture work, sports, etc.) - get to dry land and find shelter immediately.

Protect yourself outside:

~ Don't take clothes off the clothesline.

~ Don't "hurry" to finish mowing your lawn before the storm comes.

~ Keep away from fences, metal clotheslines, irrigation pipes, telephone lines, power lines, pipelines and any electrically conductive elevated objects.

~ Avoid hilltops, open spaces, isolated buildings, exposed sheds or other metal structures. Descend from ridges and mountains on the leeward side.

~ Don't handle flammable materials in the open.

~ Don't use metal objects such as fishing rods and golf clubs! Golfers wearing cleated shoes and holding metal clubs are particularly good lightning rods!

~ Avoid the highest object in the area. If only isolated trees are nearby, the best protection is to crouch (not lay down) in the open, keeping twice as far away from isolated trees as the trees are high. Whenever lightning is nearby, take off backpacks with either external or internal metal frames. In tents, stay at least a few inches away from metal tent poles.

~ Don't pitch your tent close to the larger trees in an area. These are the trees at risk of lightning strikes.

~ Go to a low-lying, open place away from trees, poles or metal objects.

~ Make sure the place you go to is not subject to flooding.

~ Stop tractor work, especially when the tractor is pulling metal equipment and dismount. Tractors are often struck by lightning.

~ Get out of the water and off small boats. If this is possible, position yourself as low in the boat as possible.

BE A VERY small TARGET:

~ Lightning takes the path of least resistance to the ground. Since air is a very poor conductor, lightning seeks anything better - and an upright human being is far better for its purpose than air. Stick up above the grass and trees when you are hiking and you become a prime target!

~ Squat low to the ground. Place your hands on your knees and your head between them. Make yourself the smallest target possible. By squatting with your feet close together, you have minimal contact with the ground, thus reducing danger from ground currents.

~ If the threat of lightning strikes is great, your group should not huddle together but spread out at least 15 feet apart. If one member of your group is jolted, the rest of you can help.

~ If you can't get out of the open, put your pack, walking stick, other belongings, about 30 feet away from you, propped up high, and huddle on the ground.

~ Don't sit down, you make a larger target. Crouch down (between two boulders if possible) on your feet on top of your rolled up sleeping bag, foam pad, coiled rope or any other supplementary insulation you have and ride out the storm.

~ Do not lie flat on the ground -- this makes you a larger target.

Yes, you can count the number of seconds between the lightning flash and the sound of thunder to determine your distance from the lightning stroke. Light travels at about 186,000 miles per second. Sound travels considerably more slowly. The distance to a lightning stroke is the time it takes for the sound to reach you after you’ve seen the lightning, divided by the speed of sound. If you assume the speed of sound to be .2 (2/10) miles per second it would take 5 seconds for the sound of thunder to travel one mile; or for every second – the lightning is 1000 feet away.

More about Thunderstorms and Lightning:

For more information on lightning safety, visit the National Weather Service on line at http://www.lightningsafety.noaa.gov/

Lightning and Lightning Safety - An Introduction

Why do some clouds produce lightning and others don’t?

Lightning Safety Outdoors

Safe Shelters and Indoor Safety

The Medical Aspects of Lightning

Printed by RedEsupply.com with permission from PEIRSON Peggy [Peggy.PEIRSON@Co.Benton.OR.US], Emergency Coordinator, Benton County Oregon.

SELECTING A DISASTER KIT
Selecting an emergency/disaster kit is not as easy as one might think. There are so many different types and so many different options to consider. In this writing, I will discuss some of the basic things to consider.

• Size of Kit: Generally, it is recommended that your kit be able to sustain you for at least 72 hours. That could mean enough food, water, and supplies to be able to provide for everyone using the kit for at least 72 hrs. It is recommended that you have a gallon of water per-day-per-person, and 1200 calories of food per-day-per-person. But the size can be reduced by including supplies that allow you to forage for food, water, and shelter rather than stocking it all. Most of us will not be in a wilderness situation: there will be homes, businesses, etc. that you can access for supplies. You need a water carrier, water filtration &/or treatment, and some tools to allow you to break into where the food and water may be.
  If you live close to a designated community shelter, you may only need 24 hours of supplies. You will definitely want some water per person for the immediate disaster aftermath. Surviving a disaster is a thirsty business! It will take some time to get organized, find and treat injuries, and listen to the radio for instructions. You should have 24 hours of supplies to cover this situation.


• Access and Portability:
  You would not believe how often I have heard “we have everything we need already; for camping and such”. When asked where there gear is, the reply is usually something like: “I think some is in the attic, some is in the basement, and I think some is in a cabinet under the sink”. That is not an Emergency Kit. You will not likely have time to conduct a scavenger hunt to find everything you need. You should have separate gear stored all together in its own designated container(s).
  Will your attic be accessible? Will it even still be there? Will your basement be accessible? Or will it be filled with your attic? Careful consideration must be given to where to store your disaster kit. Pick somewhere you think will be accessible in the worst-case disaster scenario. It is generally a good idea that your emergency kit also be portable. Garbage cans are often recommended as a way to store emergency gear. But, will it be too heavy to move? What if the strongest member of the household is injured and a child, perhaps, has to move it? Putting it on wheels, having a hand truck stored with it, or breaking it up into smaller containers are some ideas for dealing with this issue.
  See Grab & Run Case or Rolling Trunk for samples of cases.



• Types of Emergency Kits:
  Design and type of emergency kit is not really a separate issue from size, access, and portability. They all work together to define what you need. However, there are some basic types of kits that may help you figure it out.
  
  Road Emergency Kit: The Road or Travel Emergency Kit should be in every car. It is targeted to the kind of emergencies you might have while traveling in your vehicle. Jumper cables, tow strap, spare fuses, road flares, and warning lights are a few of the basics you will want. But, if there is any chance you may be stuck somewhere for a while, like in snow crossing mountains, you will also want food, water, extra blankets, and fire starters. A good basic vehicle emergency kit is one like the Benton County Vehicle Emergency Kit
  
  Evacuation Kit: If the type of disaster you are planning for would most likely necessitate your leaving the area as soon as possible, you need an evacuation kit. An example would be in a Tsunami Zone. That means you want 24 hours of supplies stored in a backpack, suitcase, or duffle bag stored somewhere you can get it and get out quickly. A front closet, the front of the garage, are some ideas. An RV is actually an excellent mobile emergency kit! You can also store your supplies in the trunk of your car so that it is always ready and with you wherever you are. You will want to be sure to include spare clothes and a hygiene kit, as you may be spending a considerable time in a shelter with a lot of other people.
  
  Grab & Run Kit: If the type of disaster you are planning for has the risk of your home or building collapsing (e.g. earthquake or tornado) you will want a Grab & Run Kit. This is similar to an evacuation kit, but you will want 72 hours of supplies, so it is likely larger. You may want to include supplies allowing you to live outdoors for a time, as your home may not be livable and your designated shelters may not be accessible. A suitcase or foot locker with wheels located in a front closet or front of the garage may be the answer. Some have a separate backpack for each family member to make the kits portable. And, as with the Evacuation Kit, having it in the trunk of your car(s) or in an RV could be your solution.
  See Grab & Run Kit for a sample of a Grab and Run kit.
  
  Shelter in Place Kit: Many disaster scenarios involve the need to shelter in place. Your home may not be damaged, or only moderately damaged, but you may not have power, water, heat, etc. You may need to “live” there for an extended time before you are rescued or the situation is resolved. Terrorist attack with gas or viral agents may be one such situation. In this situation you can have a larger kit, as you would not need to move it. But, you may want such items as plastic and duct tape, N-95 rated dust masks (anti-viral), and water purifiers. Note that the plastic and duct tape for toxic situations is not intended as a long-term thing. You could suffocate if you shut yourself in with no air circulation! The plastic and duct tape is also useful for patching leaks or making temporary rain coats. The Family Care Kit is an example of a kit that can be used either for Shelter in Place, or for Grab and Run.

more to come...

SELECTING A DISASTER KIT

Selecting an emergency/disaster kit is not as easy as one might think. There are so many different types and so many different options to consider. In this writing, I will discuss some of the basic things to consider.

• Size of Kit:
  Generally, it is recommended that your kit be able to sustain you for at least 72 hours. That could mean enough food, water, and supplies to be able to provide for everyone using the kit for at least 72 hrs. It is recommended that you have a gallon of water per-day-per-person, and 1200 calories of food per-day-per-person. But the size can be reduced by including supplies that allow you to forage for food, water, and shelter rather than stocking it all. Most of us will not be in a wilderness situation: there will be homes, businesses, etc. that you can access for supplies. You need a water carrier, water filtration &/or treatment, and some tools to allow you to break into where the food and water may be.
  
  If you live close to a designated community shelter, you may only need 24 hours of supplies. You will definitely want some water per person for the immediate disaster aftermath. Surviving a disaster is a thirsty business! It will take some time to get organized, find and treat injuries, and listen to the radio for instructions. You should have 24 hours of supplies to cover this situation.



• Access and Portability:
  You would not believe how often I have heard “we have everything we need already; for camping and such”. When asked where there gear is, the reply is usually something like: “I think some is in the attic, some is in the basement, and I think some is in a cabinet under the sink”. That is not an Emergency Kit. You will not likely have time to conduct a scavenger hunt to find everything you need. You should have separate gear stored all together in its own designated container(s).
  Will your attic be accessible? Will it even still be there? Will your basement be accessible? Or will it be filled with your attic? Careful consideration must be given to where to store your disaster kit. Pick somewhere you think will be accessible in the worst-case disaster scenario.
  It is generally a good idea that your emergency kit also be portable. Garbage cans are often recommended as a way to store emergency gear. But, will it be too heavy to move? What if the strongest member of the household is injured and a child, perhaps, has to move it? Putting it on wheels, having a hand truck stored with it, or breaking it up into smaller containers are some ideas for dealing with this issue.
  See Grab & Run Case or Rolling Trunk for sample cases.



• Types of Emergency Kits:
  Design and type of emergency kit is not really a separate issue from size, access, and portability. They all work together to define what you need. However, there are some basic types of kits that may help you figure it out.
  Road Emergency Kit: The Road or Travel Emergency Kit should be in every car. It is targeted to the kind of emergencies you might have while traveling in your vehicle. Jumper cables, tow strap, spare fuses, road flares, and warning lights are a few of the basics you will want. But, if there is any chance you may be stuck somewhere for a while, like in snow crossing mountains, you will also want food, water, extra blankets, and fire starters. A good basic vehicle emergency kit is one like the Benton County Vehicle Emergency Kit

Evacuation Kit: If the type of disaster you are planning for would most likely necessitate your leaving the area as soon as possible, you need an evacuation kit. An example would be in a Tsunami Zone. That means you want 24 hours of supplies stored in a backpack, suitcase, or duffle bag stored somewhere you can get it and get out quickly. A front closet, the front of the garage, are some ideas. An RV is actually an excellent mobile emergency kit! You can also store your supplies in the trunk of your car so that it is always ready and with you wherever you are. You will want to be sure to include spare clothes and a hygiene kit, as you may be spending a considerable time in a shelter with a lot of other people.
Grab & Run Kit: If the type of disaster you are planning for has the risk of your home or building collapsing (e.g. earthquake or tornado) you will want a Grab & Run Kit. This is similar to an evacuation kit, but you will want 72 hours of supplies, so it is likely larger. You may want to include supplies allowing you to live outdoors for a time, as your home may not be livable and your designated shelters may not be accessible. A suitcase or foot locker with wheels located in a front closet or front of the garage may be the answer. Some have a separate backpack for each family member to make the kits portable. And, as with the Evacuation Kit, having it in the trunk of your car(s) or in an RV could be your solution. See Grab & Run Kit for a sample of a Grab and Run kit.
Shelter in Place Kit: Many disaster scenarios involve the need to shelter in place. Your home may not be damaged, or only moderately damaged, but you may not have power, water, heat, etc. You may need to “live” there for an extended time before you are rescued or the situation is resolved. Terrorist attack with gas or viral agents may be one such situation. In this situation you can have a larger kit, as you would not need to move it. But, you may want such items as plastic and duct tape, N-95 rated dust masks (anti-viral), and water purifiers. Note that the plastic and duct tape for toxic situations is not intended as a long-term thing. You could suffocate if you shut yourself in with no air circulation! The plastic and duct tape is also useful for patching leaks or making temporary rain coats. The Family Care Kit is an example of a kit that can be used either for Shelter in Place, or for Grab and Run.

More to come..